paul sellers knife wall

I probably could make one like this after going through 200 bf. Act on the side of caution until you get enough experience. When you are chopping – are you trying to remove material that had it fibers cut when you chopped vertically from the knife wall. Strange as it may sound, I still find it confusing when I need to carry a knifewall around a corner when layingout a 45-degree miter or some other non-90 angle. It won’t take long.

Grab some scrap and practice. I never liked the scratch for wood so never used it there.

apricity.

I was defiantly educated seeing you make that long cut with your hacksaw and will give that a try as well. I’m not sure what you mean by “pop the chisel”? 7 people found this helpful. Lastly, we have a lifetime support piece to use every time we need to sharpen our tenon saws.Looking forward to #2/10!

Thank you very much for sharing that knowledge with all of us.The replacement blade cost has skyrocketed also… $5-$6 for a single blade. |And am wary of the marking/striking knife I inherited from an old friend of my mothers.The other tip is that the first cut really does need to be light, again to prevent the blade pushing the rule off-line.The marking/striking knife as it was in the mid 1960s or so when it was last used in schools and in the industry. Much of your posts contain details. The reason is simple, once you see it in action.

Two coats of shellac, one pass of furniture wax with 0000 steel wool. but it didn’t hurt and I didn’t cry). This sounds trivial, but I think if you pay attention the next time you knife a miter, you’ll find you are doing a number of subtle things unconsciously that would benefit us if pointed out in detail. Paul Sellers & Company Ltd is a company registered in England and Wales with the company number 10347569. The blades for these knives are only .040 thick which puts the sharpened edge just .020 from the flat side of the blade. It’s a technique I have used all of my working life.

Thank you very much.Gently at first, then firmer blows as you go deeper – but it is not necessary to bring out a sledgehammer at any point. Seamus. Now it seems like a luxury piece that has been in my shop for years!

The team’s visual production techniques have become absolutely first rate.It’s brilliant in its simplicity, Paul…absolutely brilliant. I’m humbled by your depth of wisdom and knowledge of woodworking. …may I suggest a “Lockdown Projects” session on WWMC in the Gallery Goodnes submission form?This is great! Should a knife wall be used with crosscut panel saw as well?Plus, it’s the only way to follow the same exact line around corners. Was fed up with the nasty plastic box they come shipped in. I assume that is a function of the depth of the knife wall and of course a good sharp chisel. I think I can follow your examples and use the double bevel to my advantage(s).Have to agree with this – the knifewall gives me a precision I didn’t think I’d ever to achieve without a lifetime’s practice.If you search Paul’s site you will see he mentions this is a heavier and of more bulky life than the one he uses. Sellers you are a genius sir. From the other direction you are then splitting the wood up to those severed cuts and flicking out. When doing this, I always check the back side, even though it rarelywanders off line. I could never get the precision needed in wood working until I discovered Paul’s technique.

If I can do it, I guarantee you can do it too.Simple, practical, easy and elegant, like always. Once the houndstooth tail is cut, Paul transfers the layout and cuts the recess, with a backer to ensure accurate cutting. Everything was made by hand.

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